Family trip in Vietnam - episode 4: Hoi An Countryside

This picturesque town is a wonder and a beautiful example of a Southeast Asian trading port straight out of the fifteenth century. Hoi An has something for every kind of traveller: UNESCO World Heritage Sites, custom tailoring, unspoilt beaches, gourmet restaurants, traditional crafts and much more.

So far the authorities have avoided the temptation to allow modern development to intrude on Hoi An as the city’s attraction comes from the combination of its French colonial architecture and old world charm.

Once the commercial capital of the Cham Empire, Hoi An is now the garment centre of Vietnam. Whether you’re looking for a reproduction of your favourite ensemble, an outfit clipped from a fashion magazine or simply a tailored suit, Hoi An is the place to shop.

It’s easy to arrive in Hoi An and be overtaken by your quest for a new wardrobe as your sightseeing agenda falls by the wayside, but don’t miss out on some of the ancient treasures tucked away. In addition to the countless old houses featuring well maintained traditional architecture, there is a wealth of colourful markets, grand halls, natural formations, stunning pagodas and fishing villages just a motorbike ride away.

This may be a traditional city better known for its shopping and historic architecture, but that does not preclude the presence of quality restaurants, innovative cuisine and informative cooking classes. The food scene is alive and thriving, a magnet for gourmets and amateur eaters alike. While in town, make sure to try the town’s specialty, Cao Lau Hoi An, made from.Top off your touring with a trip to the coast and a dip in the ocean at the nearby Cua Dai beach, or a visit to Thanh Ha village – 3 km to the west of Hoi An – where friendly villagers are more than willing to teach you traditional pottery.

Hoi An is most picturesque during Tet Nguyen Tieu, which usually falls around 15 January. This marks a hugely important festival in Hoi An, and residents always put enormous effort into making it the most colourful, meaningful, and cultural festival in Vietnam. It is the time when good food, traditional music and performance art is on every corner, and hundreds of lanterns hang on almost every street. If that’s not impressive enough for you, then stroll to the river, where thousands of lanterns float toward the ocean. Get yourself a lantern, make a wish, and drop it into the drink. Who knows, maybe your wish will come true!

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The historical city of Hoi An, famous for being one of Vietnam’s most “well-preserved” cities, is fast becoming one of the most visited cities in the Southeast Asian country. At one time it was Vietnam’s most prominent port. For that reason, to this day it is considered a melting pot, with architecture reflecting a blend of cultures and historical eras. Chinese shophouses, Buddhist temples, and the Vietnamese rustic skyscrapers known as “tube houses” line the streets of Hoi An. Along with the famous Japanese Bridge, all of these sites serve as a reminders of the many influences that have come together to create the diverse and dynamic tapestry of Vietnamese culture.

Image source: flickr.com

According to the People’s Council, in 2017, Quang Nam, home to the iconic Hoi An City, received a record number of visitors with 3.22 million tourists reaching the central coastal province.

This record-breaking number of visitors was 21.66% higher than the figures from the previous year, which saw a total of 1.78 million tourists with the city providing services to 1.44 million domestic visitors, according to Vietnam Tourism.

Tourism; Good for Business but Challenging for Sustainability

Duc Tran was born in Saigon in the late 1960s and was a boat refugee to Malaysia in the mid-1980s. After travels led him through Latin and Central America, Australia, New Zealand and Europe, Duc found himself in Vietnam again in 1997. “I found Hoi An was nice, beautiful, and the people are wonderful, so I said ‘hey, why don't we try and live in Hoi An for a few years?’ Obviously I made the wrong decision because I’ve been here for the last 16 years! [laughs]” He credits his mother’s love for cooking and nurturing for compelling him to open Mango Mango, a restaurant and hotel that takes modern culinary approaches to traditional Vietnamese “soul food”.

Image source: asiatourism.news

He explains that the influx of tourism has been good for business, but has brought challenges concerning infrastructure, sustainability and the natural environment. “There are definitely problems to think about now, like the river of plastic in the ocean.” According to the Global Environmental Facility, between the 120,000 citizens in Hoi An, and the deluge of tourists that visit the city on a daily basis, 75 tonnes of solid waste are created daily. The city’s waste eventually finds its way to the oceans, which has long-term, extending, detrimental effects. Duc says, “We are concerned and we want to be sustainable and support and sustainable ways. For example, there’s a pretty good collective of businesses using bamboo straws. With education, it’s coming.”

Image source: instagram.com

Better infrastructure = Happier Travellers

He adds that there are traffic infrastructure problems that need sorting out. “There needs to be more organisation regarding the tourists coming in and out. Often when buses enter Hoi An, there’s not enough space for the buses to park. There’s a bit of chaos and the customers get stressed and actually want to leave Hoi An. Once it’s built-well, functionally, and aesthetically pleasing, people will enjoy with a sense of relaxation. It’s not necessarily a matter of cutting down on the numbers of tourists, but making it manageable.” He also wishes to see more dialogue between the city and the business owners as a means of creating an environment in Hoi An that’s more welcoming to tourists as well as local artists desiring to express their local pride through their work.

Image source: chudu24.com

Hoi An stands apart from many tourist destinations in Vietnam in that much of its attractiveness comes from its ability to allow visitors to step into a piece of living history. For this reason, local businesses concerned with drawing large crowds of visitors have an added pressure to preserve while at the same time, growing with the times and creating the infrastructure that will make the central coastal city accessible. Duc states hopefully about Vietnamese people’s ability to surmount difficulties, “We are aggressive enough to approach solving problems and create an opportunity for ourselves. If there’s an idea, get it done!”

Video source: Benn TK

Image source: vietnam-visaonline.org

Stay in a Stunning Ethnic Village, with a Heavy Touch of the Luxurious…

 
By Peter Mahomet

 

Nestled in ethnic Co Tu territory, in the mountains between Da Nang and Laos, is the picturesque village of Bho Hoong. Roughly 65km from Da Nang, to get there you follow an incredibly scenic (for both natural and cultural sights) country road that winds its way through steep mountains, lush forests and swidden lands. From some viewpoints, you can see all the way down through the valley to Marble Mountain and the azure ocean in the distance.

 

Well regarded in the past as fierce warriors – the Co Tu only stopped headhunting 50 years ago – they have largely been left alone by the Vietnamese Kinh majority. Like many of Vietnam’s remote ethnic groups, the economic success enjoyed by coastal and riverine areas of the country has not really made it to their alpine home yet. Theirs is a simple agrarian existence, occasionally supplemented by government pensions for their efforts as tenacious fighters during the American war.

Active Adventures

The government has attempted to improve a few Co Tu communities, including Bho Hoong village, but with mixed success. And this is where Active Adventures Vietnam comes in. About seven years ago, the government decided to turn Bho Hoong into a tourist “homestay” with a view to increasing the villagers’ incomes. A number of traditional-style longhouses and a communal house were built as accommodation for visitors. Unfortunately the project was not well thought through, and the whole ‘new’ village sat dormant and unloved for a few years.

 

Pham Vu Dung, Mark Wyndham and Vu The Vinh from Active Adventures Vietnam negotiated with the local government to let them renovate and reignite the homestay venture – and it worked. As you cross the suspension bridge that spans the rolling Kon river, you are met by a beautifully bucolic scene: a cluster of traditional wooden houses on stilts, with their steep thatched roofs, dotted around the edge of a village common, the whole area lorded over by the majestic communal house. It is difficult to describe the splendor of this communal house, with its massive central wooden column thrusting towards the firmaments, covered with intricate yet subtle carvings and tribal paintings.

 

Individual Luxury

What makes this small ethnic village different from the rest is that the traditional houses have been individually styled, each one taking the name of a different animal sacred to the Co Tu people. In addition, all the bungalows have their own private balcony overlooking the peaceful river – the perfect place to rest, read, contemplate and forget all your troubles.

 

Modern conveniences such as marble en-suite bathrooms and comfortable mattresses with high quality linen have been added to ensure a luxurious stay. Twin and triple rooms are available for friends and small families, and a nice hot cup of locally grown tea awaits you when you arrive.

 

The great thing about this whole venture is that everyone wins: tourists get a glimpse into a wonderful bygone world that most people will never see; local villagers benefit from increased employment and ownership; the environment and culture are protected through increased awareness and education; and Active Adventures Vietnam gains another successful tourism partnership in the region.

 
For more information about this amazing village, visit the Bho Hoong project website: www.bhohoongbungalows.com

 

 

 

Video source: TK tv

Tourists “do” have to pay a fee to enter Hoi An’s old own, most of the time…

As news of the $6 fee to enter Hoi An’s ancient town mushroomed throughout the various forms of /media in mid-April 2014, and the general feeling of disgruntlement swelled among tourists and residents alike, the government temporarily suspended implementation of the new fee policy, and held a few emergency meetings to discuss what to do.

 

 

In conclusion, sadly, ladies and gentlemen, the amended policy outlined above spells the end of that fleeting-yet-magnificent game of Avoid the Attendant… Our only consolation is that for seven daylight hours (in summertime) you can enter the old town for free, not to mention most of the night for those nocturnals lurking amongst us.

 
By Peter Mahomet