12 Things that Happen when You Move To Vietnam

By: Zoe Osborne

Any expat living in Vietnam will agree that a lot of things change when you move here. In fact, your life is pretty much flipped on its head. From the obvious things like housing, the language barrier and quality of living, to the more complex issues that you may not even have thought of, like how you will get your child to school or yourself to the office. To what office? Where will you be working? And how will you replace those gorgeous Italian leather work shoes when their soles wear out on the knobbly sidewalks around your Vietnamese apartment?


The good news is that change is a positive thing. Even if some things that happen when you move to Vietnam seem disastrous, I can bet you there is a positive thread of gold in there somewhere. From the perspective of a young lady who moved to Ho Chi Minh City just over a year ago with $600 to her name and no university degree, I can advise you on two very clear things: firstly that an almost innumerable amount of things happen when you come to live in Vietnam, specifically Saigon, and secondly that when they’ve happened you’ll look back and be darn glad that they did.

You stop being short

I personally have never been short, per say, but I have been petite before. I was womanly, small, dwarfed by my brothers, average height...and now? Now I am a giraffe without the spots and the tail. I tower over everyone here, my bones are chunkier, clothes don’t fit and my feet are like flippers! Even the shortest of Westerners will feel average or tall here in Vietnam, and whether you find that positive or not is up to you. I personally find it funny, especially when I try to fit onto one of those tiny street stall stools.

short and tall

Your money expenditure is like a backwards bell curve

When you first move to Vietnam you have no idea what a ‘dong’ even is, let alone the fact that the smallest valid monetary division here is VND 200. You have no idea what prices are reasonable or where you can buy most products, so at first you tend to dish out the dong far more lavishly than you do when you’re a bit more settled. In the first few weeks you’re a millionaire with a pauper’s bank account, but as time progresses you slowly learn to spend more wisely.

You leave all facebook groups

There is no expat group in all of Vietnam that does not suffer from an infestation of sarcastic, obnoxious twits, and for that they are becoming more of an area of harassment rather than a community. I’m not sure why, but the people who prowl those groups seem to be more interested in making everyone wish they’d never contributed to it rather than answering simple questions or voicing objective opinions. Either way, you will probably join many expat facebook groups when you move to Vietnam, and invariably leave them within a month or two.

You discover a love for wet wipes

Either this or you get used to being a human water fixture. The honest truth is that all year, rain or shine, winter or summer, Vietnam is like a sauna. It’s just so hot and sticky and if you don’t sweat like a pig then you seriously deserve a medal. In fact, someone should invent a ‘Sweatless Champion’ award for the least moist expat. Yuck. But the point is valid - I learned to love wet wipes when I moved here, because without them I would not be the fresh, clean lady I like to be.

flood vietnam

You get a job

Vietnam is one of the few places in the world where it is 100% guaranteed that you will find a job. Ok, actually there is one condition - are you white?

Hundreds of schools and language centers operate around the country that all regularly hire a steady turnover of “native speakers” to help with pronunciation, and to bring their business credibility in the eyes of their students’ parents. The only issue is that many of these foreign “teachers” are in fact novices in the trade.

People move here to teach english as a way to make money fast before heading off on their travels, or as an easy, “low-hours high-pay” job to support a few years of mid-20s partying. Many “teachers” know more about their beer than their children or care more about their trip than the future they are dictating for their students. A lot of them aren’t even native English speakers - they just look right. Such is life!

There are many other opportunities for work here, however, and as one of the fastest developing economies in the globe Vietnam is the place for all budding entrepreneurs. If you want to come to a place with few rules, countless loopholes, catching enthusiasm and booming opportunity, get started in Vietnam.

Your concept of a “bathroom” is re-defined

So, you’re in Vietnam! Just to let you know, bathrooms are no longer tidy, white tiled boxes with a clean glass walled shower and a dry, flushable toilet... We in Vietnam feel no need to seperate toilet and shower, and your bathroom will now be perpetually moist.

Toilet paper is impractical, since moist toilet paper tends to be too mushy to be effective, so the delightful bidet is now your bottom’s best friend. And if you’re feeling extreme then why not make your bathroom even more irritating with a couple of huge plastic tubs full of dirty washing, or better yet invest in some rope to string up your clean shirts and trousers and let them drip all over your already slippery bathroom floor.


Another great thing you can apply to your bathroom is packing it full of bulky plastic furniture or miscellaneous things that are vaguely associated with washing. My own boyfriend has an excellent obsession with washing our dishes in our bathroom since it’s the only private tap we have, stacking the dishes on a fantastically ugly blue rack of plastic shelves in one corner, and leaving vast piles of manky shirts soaking in soapy water while he goes to work.

You learn to squat

Whether you’re putting something into your body or passing something out of it, squatting will become a large part of your digestive life. From sitting on a tiny street stool as you slurp your hu tieu or sip on your ca phe, to bending your knees as you prepare to relieve yourself. Squat toilets are rampant in Vietnam, though the more expensive you live the less knee bending you will have to subject yourself to.


You become increasingly textured

Anyone who isn’t already scarred and scuffed should prepare themselves for a complete body transformation when they move to Vietnam. As soon as you step into the busy streets of Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi, or onto one of the dusty highways that join these two cardinal points together, you will begin that slow process of erosion that we residents all come to know very well. Your skin will be bronzed (unless you cover it) and you’ll be increasingly scuffed. One famous texture that most Saigon expats will know well comes with the introduction to motor riding. The “Saigon Kiss”, a welt from your motorbike’s exhaust, can be found on most expat legs across the city.

You get used to being confused

When you move to Vietnam you will absolutely, one-hundred percent never live through a whole day without misunderstanding something. Even if you spend the day with your foreigner mates, speaking to people in your native language, you’ll probably still meet with some situation or another that confuses you. Why? Because this country make no sense. It’s almost as if people look at a process and ask themselves 3 questions:

- Does it need to work?
- Does it need to be efficient?
- Does it need to be cheap?

And then disregard every answer they thought of and go ahead with making something completely and utterly bizarre. And you know what? It’s great. Simply because life becomes so hilariously strange that everything is turned upside down and you feel like you’re walking on your ears. And then you laugh, because it’s reality.

You replace your iPhone and your wallet

If you’ve managed to hold onto your valuables so far then you have two options - either buy a leotard and become a superhero, or lock them up somewhere dark and hidden because if you haven’t lost them yet then you will soon. Very soon. It’s science, particularly in Saigon.

The city is not a dangerous one for real, organised crime, but petty theft is rife and even if you’re being careful it’s easy to be stolen from. My friend once had her phone ripped out of her hand by a man in a flower shop, who then sprinted onto the street and hopped on a moped. She thought she’d be ok since she was inside! But...no.


Luckily second-hand goods aren’t so expensive here and we’ve taken the time to find a great option for replacing your stuff, which you can read about here. But ideally, just don’t lose things. A good rule of thumb is look around you before you take your phone out, don’t put stuff in back trouser pockets, lock everything up if you’re not standing within a meter of it, and don’t wear expensive jewelry on the street.

You eat every illogical part of a chicken and forget that ‘breast’ exists

I go to the market every day and they either breed breastless chickens in Vietnam or they scoff it all themselves beforehand because I swear to you - there is never even one piece of succulent chicken breast meat. Feet? Yep. Heads? Gosh, they’re first on the table! Wings, and thighs? Mmmmm getting a bit mainstream there but ok, we stock them.

Chicken stomachs are a favourite around here, and apparently that part of the bird which, given its all too close association with poo, would be my ABSOLUTE last choice.

You invest in cats

Either this or you just start talking about investing in cats, yes feline animals, because you become convinced that you will be forever alone. This one applies mainly to Vietnam’s female expats, and though I will admit I don’t see many cats in Ho Chi Minh City I do hear many impending cat women complaining about male expats’ obsession with Vietnamese girls. Why do so many foreign men in Vietnam swear against Westerner-Westerner relationships? What’s their problem huh?


Well whatever the issue is, something’s gotta give. Either Vietnam will be swamped with an influx of compensatory cats in the next 5 to 10 years or all our women will move to South America to find themselves a beautiful bronzed hispanic. But wait ladies, what about Vietnamese suiters?

Cost of Living in Saigon

By: City Pass Guide

Everybody keeps filling my ears with how marvelously cheap life in Vietnam is, but I have my doubts on that. I mean, compared to Switzerland, Austria, Japan or Singapore… yes. Vietnam is definitely cheaper. But you have to do your homework, note places where they don’t overcharge you because of your long nose and generally add the costs of visa, occasional visits to your country of origin and all those extra fees that apply if you don’t know your way around very well.

The point is, most Vietnamese believe that Westerners are marvelously rich, educated and noble beings, like some fair princeling out of some cock-and-bull-story. Many see no harm in charging double the normal price for a bag of cucumbers, so you need to be on edge all the time.

From all Asian countries I can only compare it to China and if you take your average expat salary and compare it to the cost of living… China is cheaper, because prices are fixed and that’s it.

But let’s start and break down the costs of living in HCMC:


Renting a decent room in District 1 will cost you at least VND 6,500,000. Yes, there are cheaper options available, but I am referring to a spacious room in a nice area where water, electricity, Wi-Fi and drinking water are included. If you are lucky, you find a good place in further away districts at a lower price, but usually there is something fishy about it, so the VND 6,500,000 room is what I take as the minimum for a proper accommodation with Western standards.

renting in district 1 


The phone itself is at about the same price level as everywhere else in the world and it’s up to you whether you want to buy it. Probably even a bit more expensive due to additional taxes. SIM cards are available for VND 50,000 and one SMS costs around VND 300.


Taxi or motorbike taxi comes at around VND 11,000 per kilometer. Taxi is air conditioned and comparatively safe, while motorbike taxis are faster and more flexible. Your own motorbike usually costs anywhere from VND 6,000,000 (functional) to VND 20,000,000 (pretty good) and beyond. One liter of gasoline is from VND 19,000 in September 2017.

Cars are extremely pricy, mainly because of the high import taxes. But in a car you can’t go anywhere anyway during rush hour.

Cost of Living in HCMC


Local food is cheap and readily available on the street. For around VND 30,000 you can get a decent, Asian-sized meal like chicken rice. A bowl of pho comes at minimum VND 25,000. However - buy cheap get cheap. Local street vendors and restaurants often use cheap ingredients like recycled oil or fish sauce infused with chemicals that cause my stomach to turn when just reading their names. While having a dish like this once in awhile won’t kill you, ingesting Aspartame and MSG on a daily basis is something you may want to reconsider.

For a decent meal in a nice, local place you pay from VND 40,000.

Your craving for Western food can be satisfied easily from VND 70,000 upwards. For a proper pizza, prepare to pay at least VND 150,000, rather VND 190,000.

A good steak, and I am talking about a real steak here, is available from around VND 600,000 but rather VND 1,000,000. A really nice hamburger may be as much as VND 190,000. A tasty cut of salmon, char grilled with veggies and mashed potatoes is served for around VND 250,000. For VND 200,000 you get a plate of enough enchiladas to fill even a large bandido to the top.

If you are on a budget, but don’t want to miss grandma’s bread dumplings, home cooking is the way to go.

Some ingredients for cooking (average prices):

- Butter, 250g - VND 80,000

- Baguette, small - VND 2,000

- Camembert, 200g - VND 60,000

- Wheat flour (whole grain, US/Aus) 1kg - VND 70,000

- Eggs, 10pcs - VND 26,000

- Chocolate, Ritter Sport - VND 50,000

- Apple juice, 1l - VND 50,000

- Spaghetti, 500g - VND 30,000

- Coconut - VND 10,000

- Olive oil e.v, 1l - VND 200,000

- Water, 5l - VND 22,000

- Beer (Saigon Special), 0,33l - VND 13,000

- Wine (drinking quality), 0,7l - VND 140,000

- Wine (European import), 0,7l - VND300,000

- Milk (crappy quality), 1l - VND 20,000

- Milk (real, pasteurized), 1l - VND 40,000

- Herbs (dried, various), 20g-50g - VND 25,000

Like all things, you have various qualities available. You can buy a liter of fish sauce for VND 30,000, but I guess it is more MSG than anchovies in there. Good fish sauce you get for around VND 110,000, just containing fish and salt.

For a daily average of VND 80,000 per person and some cooking skill you can ensure good meals, fruit and water, including a coffee in the morning, but no fancy desserts and imported delicacies.

Home cooking is also the way to go if you have special needs. Lactose free food is available, because traditional Vietnamese food does not include milk. Lactose free milk is unheard of in Vietnam though. Rice does not contain gluten, but you never know what else is in the food at restaurants. Organic food is hard to find and pricy. Halal food is available at most Indian and Indonesian restaurants, for a relatively high price though. If you need halal restaurants on a budget, I guess the best practice is to look and ask around a mosque.

Health Care

Health insurance starts from a monthly VND 2,500,000, not including dental. Dental treatment is usually not cheap, but fillings start at VND 200,000, depending on which clinic you go to. Without insurance, you can save money on your everyday medical needs if you only consult a doctor when necessary. The diagnosis is quite cheap at public hospitals if you are prepared to wait for your turn. Of course, should something graver happen and you need to stay at the hospital, then be advised that even a blanket on the corridor floor can drain your financial reserves pretty fast. It also may drain your patience, because sleeping on the floor where a hundred Vietnamese walk to the toilet every night is decidedly un-Western.

healthcare in HCMC/ Saigon

Okay, let’s calculate our monthly expenses for an adult person now:

- VND 6,500,000 living

- VND 3,000,000 food & drink

- VND 2,500,000 insurance

- VND 200,000 phone bills

- VND 200,000 mobility

- VND 700,000 visa

- VND 300,000 other necessities

Therefore the total monthly expenses for an acceptable lifestyle are around VND 13,000,000 for a single person without further responsibilities, excluding one-time expenses like purchasing a motorbike, laptop, clothing, shoes and the like. Of course, you can lower the costs by renting cheaper, eating cheaper, taking the risk of not being insured and generally lower your expectations. Also, like in all metropolises throughout the world, you can spend significant amounts of money on luxuries.

It’s up to you.

When it’s not up to you alone, because you have a family, you may take into consideration more than just living from hand to mouth. One of the special topics that appears all the time is:


While education in public schools is relatively cheap, the quality of these institutions leaves something to be desired. Excellent education is available in Vietnam too, but the costs of these international schools are quite expensive, unless your job position in Ho Chi Minh City covers your kids' education.


A O Show Take Four: How Good Is Teh Dar?

By: Arik Jahn

For a quite a while now, Lune Production’s internationally acclaimed A O Show is no insider tip, and instead one of Vietnam’s most famous entertainments. This cultural show combines an authentic Vietnamese experience with acrobatics, dance, music and a visit of Saigon’s and Hanoi’s opera houses, making for a constant crowd puller.

Established in 2012, Lune Production has come up with three different versions of the show in Ho Chi Minh City: the original A O Show, The Village and The Mist. Since August 2016, a fourth show has been added to the programme: The Teh Dar Show.

The Dar 5

Distinctly different from the productions that have come before, this show displays the life and customs of the ethnic tribes in Vietnam’s central highlands. Two thousand people tried out for the show, but only 15 circus artists and 5 musicians from various ethnicities were chosen.

Elephant Trousers and White Socks

Teh Dar comes with the usual A O Show amenities designed to provide a great experience for its guests from start to finish: a highly professional service staff as well as free flowing peach and lemongrass ice tea and candied ginger before the performance.

The Teh Dar audience, however, is quite different from the average opera crowd: elephant trousers, white socks and flip flops abound. This is an event catered not only to residents but also – and above all – to Ho Chi Minh City’s many tourists. Besides the show, there’s another draw to this Teh Dar: the Saigon Opera House is open to the public only on the occasion of an event, so in addition to an entertaining performance, a trip to Teh Dar will also complete your city sightseeing tour.

The Opera House Saigon

Enjoy the Show

When the light goes out, the artists enter the room in a procession that immediately immerses the audience into the show’s theme. The ethnic clothes, tribal sounds and minimalist-yet-metaphoric stage design outline the setting of the upcoming 60 minutes. “Teh Dar” itself is roughly translated as “going in a circle”, and the circle is indeed the all-dominant symbol throughout the show.

The opening scene alone is worth the money: an action-packed acrobatic hunting scene paired with thundering drum rhythms. From there, the show alternates between atmospheric scenes, romantic and spiritual interludes, funny vignettes, incredible stunts and daring feats. However, throughout these various elements, there’s no forgetting what this show is all about: displaying the tribal life in the southwestern highlands of Vietnam.

Teh Dar 2

The show ends as it started: with a procession, although this time it’s more joyful. The whole crew, singing and playing music, gathers in the lobby and invites people to take pictures with them. It’s the perfect ending to an hour of spectacle, suspense, wit, beauty, authenticity, romance, spirituality and, above all, genuine Vietnamese character.

The Fine Art of Entertainment

The show’s creators Tuan Le, Nguyen Nhat Ly, Nguyen Lan Maurice and Ngo Thanh Phuong are veterans in producing top-notch entertainment. The mere attendance figures prove this each and every night. And how often does it happen that a show not once bores you?

Traditional depictions never become stereotypical, modern elements are implemented without spoiling the show’s authenticity, and most of all: they know how to keep the balance between fast-paced and slow-paced scenes, individual and group performances, spectacle and artistic value.

Teh Dar 6

Teh Dar might be the most mature among the four A O Shows. The quality of the musical performance is beyond reasonable doubt. Traditional instruments like steel-drumish gongs, a sitar-like instrument called Goong, buffalo horns and massive elephant drums meet a modern arrangement that at times reminds one of a street jazz combo.

Anything to Moan About?

If there’s one thing to criticise, it’s the fact that the show doesn’t provide the audience with a booklet that gives credit to the artists and creators. It would have been nice to get concise information on the cultural foundations of what I had seen. But really, stop moaning, you!

What Do People Say?

Saigon’s A O Show is ranked first in the category Concerts & Shows on TripAdvisor with an average rating of 4.5 out of 5 points. A 27 out of 30 reviews of the Teh Dar Show give it full marks; and I honestly haven’t met a person who was disappointed by any of Lune Production’s events. Depending on the schedule, you might not be able to go to see the Teh Dar Show. Pick any of the others then – you won’t regret it. These shows are simply the best in town.


10 Fun and Free Things to Do in Saigon

By: City Pass Guide

Ok ems and anhs, here are 10 free fun things to do in Saigon today. Keep in mind, that my sense of “fun” may be different from yours and yes, I have actual fun at libraries.

Visit a Library

There are actually libraries in Ho Chi Minh City, even if it doesn’t look like it at the first glance. Many international schools and universities have libraries that are open to the public if you behave properly. However, if you want to borrow books, you need to register.

Rainbow Bridge

The rainbow bridge near the State Bank in District 1 and District 4 is a popular place to hang out for young Vietnamese couples. It’s actually a nice place to go on Saturday evenings. If you can get your hands on a padlock, you can write the name of your soulmate on it and fix it somewhere there. Don’t worry, the architect used to be Eiffel. His tower still stands upright in Paris, so your little lock won’t crash the bridge.

Rainbow Bridge

Walking Street, Nguyen Hue

Since the opening of the new walking street next to Saigon City Hall on Uncle Ho’s birthday, it became a major point to hang out for Saigonese on free evenings. Walk around, play with the fountains and tease the cops whose job it is to guard the statue so nobody can get close to it. Don’t ask me why somebody would guard a huge bronze statue, but that’s how it is. If that is not enough fun for you, you may want to marvel at the efficient precision with which the traffic lights have been synced to form an absolutely useless system.

walking street Nguyen Hue

Photo by: Khoi Nguyên Peter

Songbird Singing Competition

In the morning, Tao Đàn Park is the place to be. At the café next to Cách Mạng Tháng Tám street, hobby ornithologists are gathering with their feathered friends and the air is filled with different songs. It’s one of my favorite spots to unwind with a cup of Vietnamese coffee before the heat and bustle of the day starts gripping you by the nose.

Pretend to be a Tourist

This one aims at our expats in Saigon who already have forgotten how the city feels for tourists. Get your funny hat, a backpack with a bottle of water, camera and mosquito spray and that old I-Love-Vietnam-Shirt from the suitcase that is rotting under the bed. If you especially want to mimic a German tourist, don’t forget to put on white socks under your sandals.

Visit a Free Concert

On Saturday mornings, you have a chance to witness a free concert right in front of the Opera House. Just go there and watch, it’s really cool and features different orchestras. Sometimes it’s a march orchestra, sometimes a traditional performance and once I saw a group playing the strings.

Smile for a Change

Take some time and smile at all the obnoxious attention that you get whilst walking along the street. I know, we all got used to simply ignoring xe om drivers, massah girls and crap-selling students, but sometimes it might be nice to smile at them and listen to their stories. It’s been some time since we have been invited to play poker at some odd house, been offered some weird guy’s cousin for marriage or being proposed the best business opportunity of our life.

Challenge an Elderly

In some districts or at parks you find elderly men sitting there with their chess boards and playing. If you see one sitting alone, you can inquire if he’s up to a game. Keep in mind that he plays that game every day, so you will probably lose. If losing is not a shame, not knowing the rules is: check them out first, because Asian chess is different than ours.


Photo by: Paro Nguyen

Free Music Shows

At various holidays and sometimes just for kicks, they set up a stage at 23/9 Park, near Ben Thanh Market. Sometimes also opposite of Highlands Coffee on Pham Ngu Lao. It’s free for all and you may experience some nice songs and group performances.

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