24 hours on Bassac Cruise

By: Quang Mai

Following my blog about Top 3 things to see in Can Tho, I ended the blog with an open question: whether a Bassac Cruise can be added to my favourite things to-do list. For those who have never been on board a boat or afraid of being away from the land, it is a fantastic experience to stay a night on the Mekong Delta with its cooling breeze, peaceful atmosphere, perfect safety with all the conveniences of a Bassac Cruise.

The highlight of my most recent Can Tho trip was spending 24 hours with the City Pass team on Bassac II. We boarded at noon to have lunch together at the alfresco area of the second floor. The lunch set of steamed shrimp with coconut soup, beef, fish and tropical fruits for dessert was served against the background of a spectacular view of Can Tho bridge and the Mekong River passing by.

If the temperature is too high for you, stay inside the boat to avoid the heat. You can’t enjoy the food and the view while the sun is beating down on you.

In order to get away from the sun, I found my way to my comfortable twin room with air-conditioning. I was surprised that it had free Wifi on board so I could update my news feed with Instagram photos on Facebook and check my email frequently. So I was able to keep in touch with people as if I was onland. Superb and convenient!

The late afternoon was a good time to visit local areas on the banks of the Mekong Delta. We left Bassac Cruise II and boarded a small boat to get to a local village. The highlight of the trip was crossing over a bridge called Monkey Bridge which only fits one person at a time. The trek was completed with fruits from a local’s garden. Fresh fruit served with shrimp salt quenched our thirst after our long walk and attempts to cross the bridge safely.

Most places serving fruits also offer homestays for travellers who desire to experience a night with locals. Back to Bassac II to prepare for dinner and party afterwards, I rushed to the bathroom and indulged myself in a hot shower which really made me feel refreshed and ready for the evening ahead. Later, I chilled out with the team and had some pieces of gỏi cuốn (springroll) and quiche along with a complimentary cocktail or beer.

Cocktails, wine and beer are available at any time on the cruise so indulge yourself. Dinner was served at 7pm when night had fallen. However there was enough light to see the satisfaction on everyone’s faces when tomato soup, fish, chicken, rice and delicious fried pumpkin flower were laid out on our tables.

Being with my team mates outside work was an incredible experience. The cosy space with cooling breezes and fresh air made us all feel at ease with each other. The night was full of laughter, conversation, games and whisky and cognac. We stayed up late until 2.30am and enjoy every minute of our time without bothering any neighbours.

You can ask for a light supper before 11 p.m. which can be instant noodle with beef or some bread. Even though we got to bed very late, I was determined not to miss the sunrise on Mekong Delta but the sun was behind the clouds on that day but I was able to see Phung Hiep floating market Trà ôn market at 6am and enjoy my early breakfast at 7am. We were shifted to a small boat to visit Cai Rang floating market at 8 am and enjoyed some pineapples before heading Ninh Kieu port around 10.

I was far more excited by this cruise than by any plane journey. I was fascinated by the trip and definitely decided to add a Cruise to my to-do list when traveling in Can Tho.


The Nine Dragons are alive – Part 2

By: City Pass Guide

This is the second and final part of our historical look at the Mekong delta, kindly provided by tour company TransMékong. TransMékong operates tours through the delta on three authentic wooden cabin cruisers called Bassac. The name comes from the older name of the Hậu Giang river, the second but larger branch of the Mekong. This splits from the main Mekong flow at Phnom Penh, and then grows into its largest tributary.

Many canals were not built as planned

The map shows in red the primary waterways, and in blue local waterways. There is a passage at Chợ Lách, between Cái Bè and Cổ Chiên river, and the Kiên Lương canal was already between Châu Đốc and Hà Tiên on the Gulf of Siam. Many waterways that were deemed of general interest are now limited in air draft by low bridges, and only run by smaller freighters, as for instance the straighter way from Bạc Liêu to Mỹ Tho. In dotted lines on the map are the canals that the colonial administration planned to dig at that time. With the advent of 1925 and the beginning of social unrest, many of these canals were never built. And some as well should not, like a canal from between Long Xuyên and Châu Đốc that would have met the sea halfway from Rạch Gía to Hà Tiên, where there is nothing. The present day Kênh Rạch Sỏi makes much better sense.

Colonial and local waterways as of 1910, in Voies d'eau de la Cochinchine, A. Pouyanne

A historic capital of the delta?

An extended network of local canals and waterways shows in blue on the map, although mostly in dotted lines, so as projects at that time. It is quite noteworthy that most of the larger existing canals of local interest as drawn on the map lead to the same place: Phụng Hiệp, about 35 km South of Cần Thơ, and which still hosts today one of the largest floating markets of all: Ngã Bảy, which means 7-ways crossroads (see a satellite picture). If the map is complete enough and reliable, it hints that Phụng Hiệp may have been quite an important commercial place at that time. David Biggs, arguably today's historian most knowledgeable of the Mekong delta, has dug out court cases showing we in fact owe the French engineers the numerous canals leading to Phụng Hiệp: the later ones having been dug under legal pressure from the local land owners to try and alleviate recurrent floods brought to the area by the former ones.

Our boats, the Bassac, have all been built a few hundred meters away from Ngã Bảy, in Phụng Hiệp.

Treading forgotten meanders

On the way from Cần Thơ to Cái Bè or back, we run along Măng Thít river and Nicolai canal. Both were present in the early XXth Century, as we see on this map dated about 1910. The Nicolai canal was then named Trà Ôn, after the town at its confluent with the Bassac, behind Cù Lao Mây, where we stop for floating markets on the way to Cần Thơ in the early morning. It is much straighter than a river, which not only makes it faster to cross, but also protects it against the sheer force of erosion. Where the path becomes a winding river, we reach Măng Thít, still a very beautiful sight today. The meanders of Măng Thít river evolve year after year and are more marked today than they were then: silt settles on the inside of curves, whereas the water erodes the outer bank of a meander, carving it out in the long run. The map actually shows a meander so bent that a shortcut appeared or maybe was dug, leaving out the loop of the river.

Map of Măng Thít, circa 1910, in Voies d'Eau de la Cochinchine, A. Pouyanne

Visit an oxbow of Măng Thít

A hundred years later, the loop has turned into an oxbow. It is still there (see a satellite picture), but shallower and narrower, and it actually defines a beautiful biking path, as the middle of the "islet" is open ricefields circled by coconut trees. On some trips, the Bassac stop there for a stroll and a visit on shore.

TransMékong is a family company established in 2003 in Cần Thơ, in the heart of the Mekong delta, by a Franco-Vietnamese couple.
To book a tour, call +84 (710) 382 9540 or get a quote.
If you are a tour operator, a local relay to TOs, a tourism professional, TransMékong want to know you as well as your products.
You may also subscribe to TransMékong's news in English.

Other articles:

The Nine Dragons are alive Part 1: Historic waterways

Family trip in Vietnam 1st episode: Enter the Dragon



The Nine Dragons are alive – Part 1

By: City Pass Guide

Tour company TransMékong operates tours through the Mekong delta on three authentic wooden cabin cruisers called Bassac. The name comes from the older name of the Hậu Giang river, the second but larger branch of the Mekong. This splits from the main Mekong flow at Phnom Penh, and then grows into its largest tributary. TransMékong has generously provided us this interesting historic information on one of the largest river deltas in the world.

In Vietnamese, the Mekong is called "Cửu Long", which is Sino-Vietnamese for Nine Dragons, after the number of its mouths. However, as you try and count the branches of the Mekong that actually reach the sea today, nine is one of the few numbers you will not reach. The dragons are moving.


The estuaries of the Mekong circa 1910

With the siltation and erosion from the sea, the rains and its own flow, the Mekong is changing and evolving. Islands propagate, oxbows appear, mouths silt up.

It takes an old map to figure out the origin of the nine dragons, like this one, dated circa 1910, where we see the following mouths: on the Hậu Giang river, alias The Bassac, are the Đình An, Bassac and Trân Bé mouths, or Cửa. The Cửa Đình An is the trading way today, although so much sitled that there is now a project to open a separate canal through Trà Vinh for the larger freighters. The Bassac mouth is now completely silted up and disappeared.

The rivers Cổ Chiên, with Cửa Cung Hậu and Cửa Cổ Chiên, and Hàm Luông with Cửa Hàm Luông, are still there and are similar today to what they were in the early XXth Century. Tremendous change occurred on the Mỹ Tho river, the end of the Tiền Giang: the Cửa Ba Lai, which was the end of its own river, was entirely silted up and the river nearly completely disappeared, into what is now known as Bình Đại district, in Bến Tre. Cửa Đại and Cửa Tiểu, the large and small mouths of the first river, are still here, Cửa Đại being the main commercial route towards Cambodia today.

Since the French arrived in the then Cochinchina, they were tempted to open routes to upstream the Mekong delta into Cambodia and then Laos, and as early as 1858, at the time they landed in Tourane (Đà Nẵng), they launched a reconnaissance expedition to chart the larger ways of the Mekong delta, much earlier than the famous Doudart de Lagrée exploration in 1866.


The map from the 1858 expedition

If the geography and proportions of the rivers differ a bit from reality, their topology is rather correct, as far as navigators of the main arteries could discover at that time. Cù Lao Giêng, Cù Lao Ông Hổ, Cù Lao Mây, many details of the Mekong topography are present, and we can somewhat rely on the map to appraise the evolution and changes of the river and its trading waterways.

Many of the main canals are not there, especially Kênh Chợ Gạo and Kênh Lấp Vò, between Mỹ Tho on the Mekong and the common trunk of the Vàm Cò rivers (here named Vai Co), but there are some rạch and arroyos that were at that time of commercial use and that have since become quite secondary, as the Kinh Ba Bio, between Saigon and Cái Bè. The river Măng Thít, between Trà Ôn and Cổ Chiên, is not charted, but its mouth at the confluent on Cổ Chiên (then Co Khiên) is present on the map. The Trà Ôn canal, which was to become the Nicolai canal later in the XXth Century, was certainly already there, at least in its original, river form.

More importantly, there seems to be a natural connection from the first river to Cổ Chiên, just upstream of the effluence of Hàm Luông, at about the location of the present day's Chợ Lách canal. The canal runs 6km across the An Bình peninsula, which is nearly 2km across at its thinnest. Could there have been a natural connection? Maps of 1910 show the canal as it is today, Could it have silted up that fast? Maybe it could: a rather complete map dated 1929 does not show it, nor any connection.

TransMékong is a family company established in 2003 in Cần Thơ, in the heart of the Mekong delta, by a Franco-Vietnamese couple.
To book a tour, call +84 (710) 382 9540 or get a quote.
If you are a tour operator, a local relay to TOs, a tourism professional, TransMékong want to know you as well as your products.
You may also subscribe to TransMékong's news in English.

Other articles:

The Nine Dragons are alive part 2: A fine mesh of canals and treading forgotten meanders

Family trip in Vietnam 1st episode: Enter the Dragon


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